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How to Install Van Insulation

November 30, 2018 by Gwen 13 Comments

Updated on February 25th, 2021

Van Insulation is very important because it helps keep the van cool when it’s hot outside and warm when it’s cold outside. We plan on using our van only for adventures and not full time so we did go slightly lighter duty on insulation than someone might if they are planning to live in their van. We also chose not to insulate the floor. Andy gave an in-depth explanation about why we didn’t insulate the floor in our Subfloor Video at around 5:30.

Disclaimer:  In the interest of transparency, please be aware that this post contains affiliate links and any purchases made through such links may result in a small commission for us at no cost to you.

Tools Needed:

  • Utility Knife
  • Utility Knife Blades
  • Measuring Tape
  • Caulk Gun
  • Putty Knife

Supplies Needed:

  • 3 Sheets of 4’x8’x1” XPS Foam (Extruded Polystyrene Foam)
  • 10 Tubes of Loctite Power Grab Construction Adhesive
  • 10 16 oz Cans of Great Stuff Expanding Foam Insulation
  • 12-18 inches of ¼ inch Nylon Tubing

Measure Wall Cavities

Start with a section that has no weird things you need to cut around. You will thank us.  Measure in at least three spots, top, middle, and bottom. You will be cutting to the largest measurement and trimming where needed.  For areas that you need to cut around, such as the fuel fill, or wheel wells, you’ll want to cut each piece to a rectangle and then trim around.

Cut the Foam Sheets

Use a utility knife to cut the foam block to your measurements.  We were lucky that the sheets were 48” tall and our walls were 48” tall.  You’re going to want to cut your foam into smaller pieces (we cut ours into three per cavity) to better fit the curve of the wall.

It’s also important to trim the sides of the block so that metal ribs do not interfere with the block resting flat against the wall.  We found that cutting a 1”x ½” strip off the sides was perfect. See 1:20 in the video for a demonstration.

Install the Foam Board

You will need to use an adhesive to attach the board to the wall.  We have seen a few videos were others have used spray foam as an adhesive.  We are here to tell you: spray foam is not an adhesive.  Use adhesive. Put adhesive along any ribs on the van and then around the edges of the board.  Add a little spray foam for good measure to the edges and slap that sucker up on the wall.

Repeat from “Measure Cavity” until finished with foam board.

Spray Foaming

The easiest place to start spray foaming and get a feel for how the cans work is on the walls.  Once you move onto the ceiling it is going to be raining spray foam in your van.  Spray around the foam boards, in any cracks, and then into any of the wall ribs.  We found a little nylon tubing to be really helpful in getting every last bit of spray foam out of the containers and reaching all those cracks and crevices.

Once you’ve sprayed the foam you’ll need to wait 10-12 hours for it to cure before you can shave off any excess.

Trim Spray Foam

Spray foam has a way way of getting everywhere.  The best rule of thumb is to let it dry before trying to remove it from hard surfaces.  It will just pop off with a putty knife or screw driver.

For the areas where you need to trim you are going to want a knife with an offset handle, it will save your knuckles.  Andy chose to use an old Sawzall blade that he bent and added some tape to the handle.  No need to buy an extra tool when you can fashion something from what’s in the garage! 

A Couple More Important Tips

It is really really important that you install any wiring that you might want to run through the ribs befor you fill them spray foam. We have chosen not to run our wiring through the ribs because we like the idea of being able to have access to the wiring if something goes wrong. The plan is to put box shaped trim panel where the wall and ceiling meet and hiding the wiring in there.

Also, we recommend that you wait to fill all of the ribs until you have installed the initial framing for your bed and cabinets.  You will see in the final clip of the video when Andy is shaving the foam off we have already installed the supports on the walls. This was because we wanted to thru-bolt where we could and the hollow ribs allowed us to put nuts on the back side.

Estimated Active Time:  6 hours

Estimated Total Time:  18-24 hours

We’d love to answer your questions!  Comment below and we’ll help!

Previous step: Van Subfloor

Next step: Van Framing

For more posts related to the van build check out our Van Build Page.

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Comments

  1. JOSE ZARZA RODRIGUEZ says

    June 23, 2019 at 9:36 pm

    EXCELENTE PUBLICACIÓN,ESTOY REPARANDO UNA COMBI Y ESTA IDEA ES MUY BUENA,GRACIAS.

    Reply
  2. Harlan Jacobsen says

    September 1, 2019 at 11:47 am

    Hello. I am enjoying your very well-written explanations. When I clicked on your YouTube link for the Andy’s reasons for not insulating the floor, “Andy gave an in-depth explanation about why we didn’t insulate the floor in our Subfloor Video at around 5:30.”, it came up blank. In a nutshell, why not insulate the floor?

    Thank you,
    Halan Jacobsen

    Reply
    • Gwen says

      September 1, 2019 at 12:19 pm

      Hello! I apologize for the link not working, I will fix that right after responding! The reason we didn’t insulate the floor is because convection is the main source of heat loss with metal. There is a a lot of stuff under the van (axels, exhaust etc) that reduces the amount of airflow, which reduces the amount of convection heat loss. Also the under belly of the van does not receive any sunlight so it doesn’t have the solar gain that would cause heat gain in situations where you would rather be cool. It is similar to the way you don’t have to put as much insulation in the floor of your home. If your planning on using your van in extreme conditions (like regularly under 10F or over 90F you may want to consider it, but for us the cost and effort wasn’t worth the minimal benefit! I hope that helps! We would be happy to answer any other questions you may have!

      Reply
      • Erin says

        November 12, 2019 at 6:29 pm

        I’m wondering what model of van did you do ?

        Reply
        • Gwen says

          November 12, 2019 at 6:37 pm

          Our van is a Chevy Express extended wheel base. Which is the same as a GMC savannah extended wheel base.

          Reply
  3. Ruby Corty says

    July 8, 2020 at 11:36 am

    The simplest and most cost effective tutorial I have seen for insulating a van, thank you for that!! My question for you is how you got the foam insulation to stick completely to the wall of the van, because the van wall is curved but the foam block is straight. The finished product in your video looked like the foam had conformed to the wall completely and I would love to know how you got it that way.

    Reply
    • Gwen says

      July 8, 2020 at 11:55 am

      Hello! We cut the foam to the general size needed for each area, and then on the backside, we cut a series of horizontal lines about 3/4 of the way through the foam block. This gave the foam enough flexibility to curve without breaking. We test fit it and cut a few more lines if necessary to make it more “bendy”. It takes a little patience because you can end up breaking the block but worst case you just attach that as a separate piece. If you look closely at the right-hand side of our “finished” pictures you’ll see that two of the cavities actually have 2-3 pieces in them because Andy got a little overzealous with his bending. We just put them up as separate pieces and filled in the gaps with spray foam.

      Reply
  4. Glen Van Spyker says

    February 24, 2021 at 11:03 pm

    I’m a General Contractor and want to throw this info out there.
    House floors do get insulated regularly to r-19 up to r-30. Because that is where the majority of the cooled air escapes when the ac is running and provides cold air infiltration when heating

    Reply
  5. Angie says

    March 6, 2021 at 9:03 am

    Thank you! This was super informative! Looking forward to starting our fav project. Will check out your other videos!

    Reply
  6. Alex says

    September 26, 2021 at 10:28 am

    PolyIso spray does work as adhesive in most situations as long as you support it until it begins to cure. Painter’s tape often works. I supported my ceiling panels with a long piece of wood trip between it and floor. Often if one is patient a 1/4″ bead between the Poly and a van rib will both secure it and provide superior insulation as well.

    Reply

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