Driving in Costa Rica

Updated on June 16th, 2021

One Spanish phrase that quickly re-entered my vocabulary while driving in Costa Rica was “¡Dios mío!”.  Oh my god! Mostly brandished while cars passed us on both sides with no blinkers, at breakneck speed, around blind corners.  Costa Rican soccer moms are potentially a huge untapped market for champion rally racers. Seriously. The Finns have nothing on these ladies.

Traffic Signs and Signals

There are very few traffic signs or signals.  If you do happen across one, they apparently are merely a suggestion you can take or leave.  Considering how hefty traffic fines are in Costa Rica, you should probably choose to follow the signs, but most people around you will not.  I would recommend that you brush up on some basic spanish for the purposes of reading the signs that do exist. A few words you might find helpful:

• Derecho–Right
• Izquierda–Left
• Alto–Stop
• Ceda–Yield
• Puente Solo Carrill–One Lane Bridge
• Despacio–Slow
• Velocidad–Speed

Passing

Passing is a competitive sport in Costa Rica that requires a willingness to risk life and limb.  Losing results in being stuck behind a 1960’s farm truck billowing black smoke for the next 20 km.

It is completely normal for a driver to pass 4 or 5 cars in a single go.  Double lines be damned. Double-check your blind spots before pulling out to pass. There is likely someone who is braver or more impatient already overtaking you in order to pass a truck three cars ahead.

• 

Motorbikes

Motorbikes are able to squeeze into a space the size of your thumbnail while traveling at approximately 120 kph.  Watch for them on both sides especially while making turns at intersections. We almost hit four or five riders who passed as we were making a turn.

Tolls

There were quite a few tolls on highway 27 which was the main way to get to and from the western part of the country.  They are not terribly expensive around 400-800 colones, but you will need to pay in cash. I have heard they take US Dollars in small denominations but I recommend getting colones.  For a glimpse into approaching toll booths see the section about passing. Be aware of other drivers.

Road Conditions

I was pleasantly surprised about the road conditions.  We had heard horror stories of car-swallowing potholes, but we really didn’t experience anything crazier than what spring in New England looks like.  Yes, some of the potholes are big, but if you are paying attention you’ll be fine. Our rental also came with a full size spare tire which put our minds at ease!  There were a few rocks in the road that would have hit the oil pan on a smaller vehicle but our SUV was fine.

The steepness of the roads is another story.  Especially on the Nicoya peninsula and from Arenal to Monteverde.  If you know how to drive a manual, we highly recommend renting a manual for driving in Costa Rica.  The engine braking capabilities alone are worth it. It is also cheaper and more full efficient but really.  You want to be able to put in second gear and crawl down the 30% grade.

Single Lane Bridges

We found that in most of the country the bridges are single lane.  One side is usually given the right of way and you will see a yield sign as you approach.  It seems to be one of the few places where you can expect drivers to follow the rules.

Pedestrians

The law is that pedestrians have the right of way in Costa Rica.  However, it is not put into practice. Pedestrians and other drivers will not expect you to stop for them.  We were warned against stopping for pedestrians because it can cause you to be rear ended.  We did stop a few times but received weird looks from the pedestrians, so we gave up.

Policia

We were pulled over at a police checkpoint while in La Fortuna.  The police officer was very nice and asked for Andy’s drivers license but did not request our passports.  We initially started the conversation in spanish but once the officer realized Andy (the driver) had no idea what was being said he switched to English.  Thank goodness because I was seriously stretching my spanish skills. The officer was very nice and informed us that this was just a random checkpoint and we weren’t in any trouble.  He also told us that we should be careful to secure our belongings in the car as they had seen a lot of break ins recently. Thank you sir!

If you are pulled over, remain calm. Ask for translation if necessary. Do not attempt to bribe the officer, and if asked do not pay any traffic tickets in cash at the time. A bribe by any other name is still…illegal. Any police misconduct should be reported the OIJ.

Gas Stations

Gas stations are full service everywhere in Costa Rica.  Even in the most rural areas we found they took credit cards.  There are two types of gasoline and most rental cars take super so just check with the company when you pick up your car.

Gas stations can also be hard to find.  We stuck to our usual roadtrip rule of stopping if we see a station and have less than ½ a tank.  It worked well and we only had one situation where the low fuel light came on.

Since we have returned home, Andy has continued to drive like a Tico.  I am hoping it ends soon but look out New Hampshire! Driving in Costa Rica is an adventure, but worth it for the beauty you are able to experience off the beaten path.